IN THE NEWS: FAMILY FARM RENEWS ITSELF

There is a great article in the NY Times Magazine this weekend about a farmer in Illinois that transformed his family farm from a monoculture that was losing money into a producer of a diverse variety of obscure crops, supplying some of the best Chicago restaurants: things like wild ramps, squash blossoms, Galapagos tomatoes, popping sorghum, and Iroquois corn, to name but a few. And they are now bringing their message of success to the surrounding community:

Marty and Kris [Travis] teach hundreds of students that they can farm on fewer than 1,000 acres and that they don't have to raise yellow corn and pink pigs. Marketing, community building and relationships with chefs are also crucial. "You see all these guys," Marty says, pointing to the sea of corn surrounding his farm, "the only relationship they have is with the guy at the elevator who says, 'Yeah, you can dump it in the bin over there.'"

Field Report: Family Heirlooms, NY times Magazine, August 27, 2009

IN THE NEWS: ROBERT KENNER INTERVIEW

Robert Kenner, director of the new documentary "Food Inc.", talks to Jon Stewart about Abu Ghraib feedlots; healthcare costs, diabetes, and why cheap food is going to bankrupt us; and Pancakes and Sausages on a stick.

The Daily Show With Jon Stewart	Mon - Thurs 11p / 10c
Robert Kenner
http://www.thedailyshow.com/
Daily Show Full Episodes Political Humor Healthcare Protests

FLOWER HIGHLIGHT: STRAWFLOWERS

We have the answer to the mystery flower: strawflower, or Helichrysum, a native flower of Africa. According to Eve, both strawflowers and gomphrena are especially good for drying, just hang them upside down and they will dry in about a week, and last all winter!

RECIPES: SAVOY CABBAGE

This recipe calls for 45 minutes of a 450 degree oven - I wouldn't even think about this one if it's over, say, 85 degrees out. Instead, try the slaw recipe below.

ROASTED SAVOY CABBAGE

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for greasing the baking dish
1 Savoy cabbage, quartered, cored, and cut into thin strips
1/2 cup chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon paprika
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 pound bacon, defatted and cubed

Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

Lightly oil a very wide, deep roasting pan. Arrange the cabbage in a single layer in the pan.

Drizzle with the chicken broth and olive oil, and season with the salt, pepper, and paprika. Toss with the garlic. Top with the bacon.

Roast in the preheated oven for 45 minutes, tossing once in a while, or until golden brown on top and lightly crisp around the edges.

Serve hot, with meat or poultry. Serves 8

SAVOY CABBAGE SLAW WITH APPLESAUCE VINAIGRETTE AND MUSTARD SEEDS

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE:
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon applesauce
1/3 cup olive oil

FOR THE SALAD:
4 cups savoy cabbage, sliced as thinly as possible
1 large bunch red radishes
3 or 4 Granny Smith apples
1 lemon, juiced
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped
Salt and black pepper to taste.

Make vinaigrette: In a bowl, mix together mustard, salt, vinegar and applesauce. Slowly whisk in olive oil a little at a time until dressing emulsifies. Set aside.

Make salad: Put cabbage in a large bowl. Using the shredding blade of a food processor or a box grater, shred radishes until you have 1 cup. Add to bowl.

Core apples and shred in food processor or with box grater until you have 2 cups. Put shredded apple into a bowl filled with lemon juice and 2 cups water, to prevent apple from browning.

When ready to serve, gently squeeze water from apple, add to cabbage and toss slaw with vinaigrette. Add mustard seeds and toss again. Sprinkle walnuts on top of slaw. Season with salt and pepper.

Yield: 6 servings.

RECIPE: ROASTED FENNEL WITH PARMESAN

I have to tell you up front, I'm not a big fennel fan. But I'm trying. I like it better roasted than raw, and I'm a big believer that cheese makes everything delicious, and thus the recipe below. If anyone has any winning fennel recipes, email them to williamsburgcsa@gmail.com and I'll share them in the next newsletter!

ROASTED FENNEL WITH PARMESAN

4 tablespoons olive oil
4 fennel bulbs, cut horizontally into 1/3-inch thick slices, fronds reserved
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup freshly shredded Parmesan

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.

Lightly oil the bottom of a 13 by 9 by 2-inch glass baking dish. Arrange the fennel in the dish. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, then with the Parmesan. Drizzle with the oil. Bake until the fennel is fork-tender and the top is golden brown, about 45 minutes. Chop enough fennel fronds to equal 2 teaspoons, then sprinkle over the roasted fennel and serve.

****

And if you love balsamic vinegar (I know I do), try this one:

ROASTED FENNEL WITH BALSAMIC VINEGAR

2 fennel bulbs (thick base of stalk), stalks cut off, bulbs sliced
Olive oil
Balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Rub just enough olive oil over the fennel to coat. Sprinkle on some balsamic vinegar, also to coat. Line baking dish with aluminum foil. Lay out piece of fennel and roast for 15-20 minutes, until the fennel is cooked through and beginning to caramelize.

Serves 4.

RECIPE: RATATOUILLE

There were so many recipes for Ratatouille that I wasn't sure which one to post here. In the end, I went with the one that looked easiest. No peeling or seeding the tomatoes, and no salting the eggplant (who needs it! and anyway, if you want to peel and seed your tomatoes, or salt your eggplant, nobody's going to stop you). My only change would be use fresh herbs if you can - they make such a difference!

RATATOUILLE

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
1 large onion, quartered and thinly sliced
1 small eggplant, cubed
2 green bell peppers, coarsely chopped
4 large tomatoes, coarsely chopped
3 to 4 small zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch slices
1 teaspoon dried leaf basil
1/2 teaspoon dried leaf oregano
1/4 teaspoon dried leaf thyme
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

In a 4-quart Dutch oven or saucepan, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic and onions and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 6 to 7 minutes. Add eggplant; stir until coated with oil. Add peppers; stir to combine. Cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep vegetables from sticking.

Add tomatoes, zucchini, and herbs; mix well. Cover and cook over low heat about 15 minutes, or until eggplant is tender but not too soft.

Serves 4.

FLOWER HIGHLIGHT: GOMPHRENA

This week in the flower share was a lovely little flower called Gomphrena, or Globe Amaranth. They look like little cactus strawberries, and come in various shades of red and hot pink (lower left in the picture). In the picture, you'll see interspersed with Gomphrena is another flower we've been unable to identify. Does anyone know the other pink/peachy colored flower that are in the same bouquet with the Gomphrena? Let us know: williamsburgcsa@gmail.com

LOCAL EVENTS: TIME FOR LUNCH POTLUCK EAT-IN

The Time for Lunch Campaign is a project of Slow Food USA, an educational non-profit with the goal of creating a world in which everyone can enjoy food that is good, clean and fair.

This year, Time for Lunch is asking parents, teachers and every responsible citizen to speak up and tell our nation's leaders that change can't wait: It's time to provide our children with REAL FOOD at school.

The Child Nutrition Act is a federal law that comes up for reauthorization in Congress every four to five years. It governs the National School Lunch Program, which sets the standard for the food that more than 30 million children eat every school day.

In the last few decades, as school budgets have been cut, our nation's schools have struggled to serve children the real food they need.

The deadline for reauthorizing the current Child Nutrition Act is September 2009.

Join this national day of action to get real food* in schools at the Williamsburg/Greenpoint Time for Lunch (A Slow Food Campaign) Potluck Eat-In!



When: Labor Day, Monday September 7, 12:00 - 3:00 p.m.

Where: 26 Broadway (between Wythe & Kent Ave), Williamsburg, 11211

What: Potluck lunch, free movie screening ("What's on your Plate"), Cooking demonstrations by the team from "Growing Chefs", raffle prizes that include a 18lb ham from Heritage Foods plus gift vouchers from local eateries.

Why: To send a clear message to Congress: It's time to provide America's children with real food at school.

We are asking participants to bring a dish to the Eat-In. But to really get the point across to budget-conscious administrators and politicians, we are issuing the following challenge.

Please try to bring a dish that:

-Is nutritious and uses whole foods (not processed foods)
-Costs less than $20 to make
-Is delicious to kids

Sign up to bring your dish at

michelle.grey@gmail.com

*Real food is good at every link in the chain. It tastes good, it's good for us, it's good for the people who grow it, it's good for our country and it's good for the planet.

SHARE ITEMS: AUGUST 19TH AND 22ND

1 pint cherry tomatoes/sungold cherry tomatoes ($5)
Tomatoes ($5)
Italian Frying peppers (sweet, not hot) and/or Hungarian Hot Wax Peppers (these are very similar looking, you will probably have to taste them to figure out which is which) ($3)
Mesclun Lettuce ($3)
Baby Bok choi ($3)
Arugula ($4)
Basil ($1.50)
1 head summercrisp lettuce ($2.50)
TOTAL: $25+

Possibly: Braising greens, arugula, cabbage

Fruit share: our own organic cantaloupes and honeydew melons, possibly also peaches or nectarines. The melons have excellent flavor, but if they are not as sweet as you would like, use them in smoothies or fruit salads with some additional sweetener.

Flower share: Sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, nigella, sweet peas, etc.

RECIPE: SWEET AND SOUR TOMATO JAM

This jam works really well on a cheese plate, but is also just as tasty on your morning toast. - Robyn Gotch

SWEET AND SOUR TOMATO JAM

1 1/3 pounds tomatoes
14 ounces light brown sugar
1 stick cinnamon
3 tablespoons sherry wine vinegar
Salt

Sterilize 2 (8-ounce) Ball canning jars

Slice an X into the bottom of each tomato. Blanch in rapidly boiling water for a few seconds and then shock tomatoes in an ice bath. The skins should peel right off. Remove the seeds and chop the tomato flesh. Transfer the tomatoes to a large saucepan. Add the sugar, cinnamon, vinegar, and a pinch of salt. Cook over medium-low heat until the mixture registers 217 to 222 degrees on a cooking thermometer. If you don't have a thermometer, put a spoonful of the jam on a plate and put it into the refrigerator for a few minutes. If it gels nicely, it's ready. Remove the cinnamon stick and discard.

Fill the sterilized jars with the tomato jam, and process in a water bath.

If you prefer to skip the canning process, just pop the jam in the refrigerator and consume within 2 weeks.

Yield: 2 cups
Preparation Time: 30 minutes

RECIPE: TOMATO BREAD SALAD

1 tablespoon red-wine vinegar
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups 3/4-inch cubes crusty bread
1/2 pound vine-ripened red tomatoes, cut into 3/4-inch wedges
1/2 pound vine-ripened yellow tomatoes, cut into 3/4-inch wedges
1/4 cup Nicoise or Kalamata olives
1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, washed well, spun dry, and chopped fine

In a bowl whisk together vinegar, garlic, and pepper to taste and whisk in oil until emulsified. Add remaining ingredients and salt to taste and toss to combine well. Let salad stand at room temperature 15 minutes to allow bread to soak up some dressing.

VEGETABLE HIGHLIGHT: TOMATO

WHAT IS IT?
The tomato is a fruit native to Mexico and Central America. It was brought to Europe by the Spanish explorers where it became an integral part of Italian cooking in the 16th century. Tomato sauce is one of the five mother sauces in classic French cooking. The many varieties of tomatoes include plum, cherry, grape, yellow, and pear. Many heirloom varieties, such as Cherokee purple, green zebra, and brandywine, are also gaining popularity.

STORAGE:
Tomatoes should be stored on the countertop. Refrigeration damages the tomato's flavor and texture.

PREP:
To easily remove the skins, slice an X into the bottom of the fruit and place into rapidly boiling water for 30 seconds. Transfer to an ice bath. The skin should slip right off. Some less ripe tomatoes may need a little extra time in the boiling water. To remove the seeds, simply slice the tomato in half and ease the seeds out with your fingers.

USAGE SUGGESTIONS:
Layer tomatoes with mozzarella cheese and basil, sprinkle with sea salt, and drizzle with olive oil for a quick and tasty first course. For a no-cook summer tomato sauce, marinate halved cherry tomatoes in olive oil and a clove of garlic for 15 to 30 minutes. Toss with hot pasta, fresh basil, and a grating of Parmesan cheese. To make Mexican salsa, simply toss together chopped tomatoes with onion, chile, garlic, cilantro, salt, and lime juice.

YOUR FARMERS: DAN, DAN, THE FARMING MAN

Last weekend, my husband and I were at our local farmers market in Queens (yes, we travel a little to pick up our GW CSA share) and as we were walking away from the Garden of Eve stand I got tapped on the shoulder by Garden of Eve's Chris Walbrecht. He was there just by chance, and recognized us (there's that CSA perk of "know your farmer, know your food"!) and was very generous with his time: we must have had a good 30 minute talk, about the farm and the CSA and how this year's distributions were going.

I'm always glad to be able to chat with Eve and/or Chris and to be reminded that they wake up every day thinking about the CSA. (It was great to learn, btw, that the farm's tomatoes definitely do NOT have that blight that has been devastating many plants this year in the northeast!)

I'm glad that the GW CSA is associated with GoE for a lot of reasons. There are the obvious ones: they're local, they are organic, they farm sustainably, they consistently provide both quantity and quality produce, and they try new things to enhance their offerings to us consumers (like last winter's "farm stand" share). And also for a reason less obvious: every year they mindfully train and support the potential next generation of organic farmers.

Chris told us a little news about Dan, who returning members may remember from the past couple of years. I'm guessing Dan's former title was Harvest Manager; anyway, he worked on the farm and was the one responsible for dropping off the CSA shares every week, plus you probably would have seen him at the McCarren farmers market, too. This year, Dan is farming on his own, on a half acre or so from Chris and Eve. It's been a struggle for him-for example, did you know that damage from animals like rabbits can be more proportionally devastating to a (very) small farm than a larger one? Those kinds of critters are usually comfortable going in about 20ft from the fence, and in Dan's farm that means much of each of his entire row of crops is vulnerable. Also, he decided his main selling place would be a farmers market, but (not unusual for new farmers) he was given a space in one of the less established markets in Brooklyn; he's been disappointed because as often as not he doesn't sell much of what he's been able to produce. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to not find a good home for what you've tenaciously cared for!

So Chris and Eve, who know all too well the difficulties of beginning farmers, are around to be an ongoing source of helpful information, moral support, and-I think well above and beyond most-they have even been able to give him a small salary to help him get by.

Pretty darn good, I say!

- Kimberly F.


Dan on a Tractor

SHARE ITEMS: AUGUST 12TH AND 15TH

FROM EVE:

Tomatoes are finally here! We are proud to announce, that through a combination of skill and good fortune, we have tomatoes to give to our CSA members this year, which is not the case for all farms in the NY area.

1 pint cherry tomatoes/sungold cherry tomatoes ($5)
Tomatoes OR sweet corn ($5)
Eggplant ($3)
Green bell peppers ($2)
Jalapeno hot peppers ($1)
Broccoli ($3)
Arugula ($4)
Basil ($1.50)
1 head summercrisp lettuce ($2.50)
TOTAL: $27

Don't forget! CSA farm trip this coming Sunday, Aug 16.
Arrive by 11am for the tour, Organic BBQ lunch at 1pm for $7, veggie options available. Bring sun protection and water. All sites invited! Those who come will have a chance for On-the-farm only, Pick Your Own 1/2 pint of our own organic blackberries, one per vegetable share, anytime in August (or as long as they are available).

Fruit share: Apricots OR white peaches, our own organic cantaloupes - unfortunately some of the melons are not as sweet as we wish they were, due to the rain and strange weather this season. If they are not as sweet as you would like, use them in smoothies or fruit salads with some additional sweetener, they do have great flavor.

Flower share: Sunflowers, cosmos, zinnias, carnations, nigella, etc.

RECIPE: ROASTED EGGPLANT SOUP

Serve this soup hot or cold!

ROASTED EGGPLANT SOUP

2 medium eggplants, peeled and cut into 4 lengthwise wedges each
2 large tomatoes, cut into 4 wedges each
1 medium onion, cut into 4 wedges
6 medium cloves garlic, peeled
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon dried leaf marjoram or basil
1 quart chicken broth
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 cup heavy cream
Salt and pepper, to taste
Fresh chopped parsley, for garnish

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Line a large baking pan with foil and brush with a little olive oil. In a large bowl, toss the tomato wedges, eggplant slices, onion wedges, and garlic with olive oil. Spread the vegetables in the baking pan. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Roast for 45 minutes to 1 hour, turning once or twice, or until the vegetables are tender and browned.

Transfer roasted vegetables into a large saucepan along with the marjoram or basil, chicken broth, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low and cover; simmer for 45 minutes, or until all of the vegetables are very soft. Remove from heat and let stand for 15 minutes.

Blend the mixture in 4 batches until pureed. Return the pureed mixture to the large saucepan and stir in cream. Heat until it begins to simmer. Add more chicken broth if the mixture is too thick. Taste and add salt and pepper. Spoon into bowls and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley, if desired.

Serves 4 to 6.

TRANSLATORS WANTED!

Greenpoint and Williamsburg are both diverse communities where English is often not the primary language spoken. In order to reach out to all members of our community, we would like to start translating our website and informational materials into other languages, especially Spanish and Polish. We are looking for CSA members, or friends, family or colleagues of CSA members, that are able and willing to help! Please contact williamsburgcsa@gmail.com if you're interested!

FRUIT HIGHLIGHT: CANTALOUPE

The cantaloupe is a flavorful, aromatic and delicious fruit dense with nutrition: high in Vitamins C & A, as well as potassium, vitamin B6, fiber, folate and niacin.

Grown since ancient times in India, Africa and Persia, cantaloupes were first introduced in the United States in the 16th century, but were not grown commercially until the late 19th century. They are in the same gourd family as cucumber, squash, and pumpkins and grow on the ground on a trailing vine.

CHOOSING A RIPE CANTALOUPE
A ripe cantaloupe produces a hollow sound when tapped and seems heavy for its size. The rind underneath the netting will be yellow or cream if ripe, and green if unripe. Ripe cantaloupes have a stronger aroma than unripe, and the stem end should be smooth and stemless. A cantaloupe will ripen if left out of direct sunlight at room temperature, but the sugar content will not increase. A ripe cantaloupe should be stored in the refrigerator, preferably in the crisper drawer, for up to 5 days.



CANTALOUPE BASIL SALSA

2 cups diced cantaloupe
1/4 cup finely chopped sweet onion such as Vidalia
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
1 fresh hot red or green chile such as serrano or Thai, minced
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
1/4 teaspoon salt

Toss together all ingredients in a bowl and let stand, covered and chilled, 10 minutes. Serve with grilled chicken or fish.

RECIPE: TORTILLA SOUP

I've been saving this one until tomato season, and it now looks like it's finally arrived! This has got to be my favorite recipe of the entire growing season. There are several steps involved, but every one of them pays off in the end. Enjoy!

TORTILLA SOUP

1 large onion, chopped
1 Tbsp. ground cumin
2 Tbsp. olive oil
3 1/2 cups chicken broth (I highly recommend homemade chicken broth - it makes a difference)
3 cups diced tomatoes (if you're feeling ambitious, roast tomatoes in oven first)
4 chicken breasts
4 ears corn, kernels cut from cob
Chile peppers*
Purchased corn tortilla chips or homemade corn tortilla strips**

In a large heavy pot cook onion and cumin in hot oil over medium heat for 5 minutes or until tender, stirring frequently. Add broth and chicken breasts, cook at a simmer until chicken is done all the way through, about 10 minutes. Remove chicken and shred with a fork, then return to pot. Add tomatoes and corn. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and top with tortilla chips or strips. Makes 8 servings (I don't think the above recipe really makes 8 servings, I'd say less, but maybe I just tend to eat a lot of this soup because I like it so much!).

Also, you should feel free to change the ratio of ingredients. I consider the above amounts mere suggestions. I tend to use less chicken and more veggies than what it calls for - but follow your own tastes!

Garnish with shredded cheese, fresh chopped cilantro, lime wedges or avocado.

*your choice: use chile powder, canned green chile peppers, fresh jalapenos, etc.

**I've never made this with tortilla chips because I just don't think it would be as good. To make your own "tortilla strips" take corn tortillas, cut into strips approximately 1/4 inch by 3 inches and fry in a little bit of olive oil until they're nice and crisp.

RECIPE: FREE FORM CUCUMBER SOUP

This recipe was given to me by one of our CSA members at distribution recently. I was asking people what they were doing with all the cucumbers they were getting. This person, with a degree of confidence, stated that, of course, she was making cucumber soup. "What recipe do you use?" I asked, but she said: "Oh, no, I don't use a recipe. Here's what you do." And she then proceeded to describe the recipe below, which is not really a recipe at all, but is perhaps a "suggestion." Well, I followed her suggestion, and the soup that resulted was delicious! So, here's what you do:

Take a cucumber, slice it up, but don't worry about peeling or taking out the seeds. Throw it in a blender. Put some yogurt in there, too. Add a little chicken broth. Then some herbs, like dill, or something else you like. Add a little salt and pepper, blend, and serve.

My additions: try adding a little olive oil or white wine vinegar.

CORE MEETING THIS SUNDAY, AUGUST 9TH

For anyone wanting to get more involved in their CSA, or for people who just want a glimpse "behind the scenes," come to our monthly "Core Meeting" this Sunday, August 9th at 129 Russell St. at the Lutheran Church of the Messiah from 4-6pm.

What's a "Core Meeting"?
Have you ever wondered who runs your CSA? Who is it that makes sure the vegetables, fruit, eggs and flowers are ready to go before distribution? Who organizes these farm trips? And who was it sitting at that computer signing you up back in March? The answer: Core Members! We are a group of volunteers that are passionate about bringing local, sustainable, seasonal, healthful, organic produce to our friends and neighbors. And we have meetings every month to talk about it. And we always have snacks. It's actually kind of awesome.

SHARE ITEMS: AUGUST 5TH AND 8TH

Vegetable share:
Eggplant
Organic sweet corn
Cucumbers
Broccoli
Arugula
1 bunch sweet salad turnips
Basil
Baby Bok Choi
1 head lettuce

Fruit share:
Cherries, apricots, sugar plums, possibly peaches.

Flower share:
Sunflowers, cosmos, larkspur, zinnias, carnations, nigella, etc.

RECIPE: TOMATO SALAD WITH CUCUMBERS, ARUGULA, AND SARDINES

Although I haven't made this salad yet, it looks great for several reasons: it looks easy enough (directions are basically combine and serve), it has more than one ingredient from our CSA share (arugula and cucumber), it has tomatoes (no, we're not getting tomatoes this week, but we will), and it has sardines (a fish that is not over-fished, is low in mercury, is wild caught, not farmed, and is really good for you).

TOMATO SALAD WITH CUCUMBERS, ARUGULA, AND SARDINES

1 cucumber, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise
1 1/4 pounds tomatoes, seeded, diced
1/2 medium onion, cut into thin rings
1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1/2 cup coarsely chopped arugula
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
8 oil-packed sardines, drained, diced

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons grated lemon peel

Combine cucumber, tomatoes, onion, parsley, arugula, mint, and all but 2 pieces sardines in large bowl; toss to combine.

Place reserved sardines in medium bowl; mash with fork until smooth. Whisk in oil and lemon juice. Season dressing with salt and pepper; mix into salad. Transfer to serving bowl; sprinkle with lemon peel.

RECIPE: CORN AND CLAM CHOWDER

This one's maybe a little hearty for a hot summer day, but it's delicious and easy to make.

CORN AND CLAM CHOWDER

3 bacon slices
1 large onion, chopped
3 stalks celery, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
2 teaspoons dried thyme
1 large bay leaf
1 pound red-skinned potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
1 8-ounce bottle clam juice
1 cup whole milk
6 small or 4 large ears corn (about 2 cups), kernels cut from cobs
2 6.5-ounce cans chopped clams

Saute bacon in heavy medium pot over medium heat until fat begins to render, about 3 minutes. Add onion, celery and carrot and saute until vegetables begin to soften, about 8 minutes. Add thyme and bay leaf; stir 30 seconds. Add potatoes, clam juice and milk. Cover pot, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Add corn and clams with juices; simmer about 2 minutes. Season soup to taste with salt and pepper and serve.

IN THE NEWS: IS MODERN CORN TOO SWEET?

I recently read an opinion piece published in San Francisco magazine, written by local restaurateur, Daniel Patterson, owner of Coi. Apparently he's decided to pull all corn and corn dishes from Coi's menu: "I'm tired of trying to create a balanced dish with an ingredient that tastes like it's been impregnated with simple syrup," he says.

His local source for corn, Full Belly Farm, has stopped growing heirloom corn and this year is growing one of the modern "supersweet" varieties instead. But Patterson argues that this type of corn lacks "subtlety," and that it "has lost its distinctive flavor, echoing America's drift toward sweet, one-dimensional tastes."

I started to wonder, why would this small organic farm decide to grow a "one-dimensional" variety of corn that lacks "subtlety," and, what variety of corn does Garden of Eve grow? Is it one of these "supersweet" varieties?

I decided to do a little research, and I found out that there are actually 3 basic types of sweet corn (sweet corn is different from "field corn," from which corn flour, popcorn, corn syrup and other corn products are made): su, se and sh2.

Su
Su ("sugary") is the original heirloom corn, containing 5-10% sugar by weight, and grown as far back as the 16th century. Some varieties still sold today were introduced in the late 19th and early 20th century, such as Golden Bantam (1902), Country Gentleman (1890) and Silver Queen (the variety that Full Belly Farm used to grow, and still a popular variety for the home gardener). These are truly heirloom varieties, have the most "corn" taste and are the least sweet of the sweet corns. Additionally, they are best when cooked within 30 minutes of picking, not making them a good commercial corn. According to Dr. Mary Peet, of North Carolina State University: "In 24 hours after picking, sugar content declines 8 percent at 32 degrees F and up to 52 percent at 86 degrees F."

Se
Starting in the mid-20th century, the se ("sugar enhanced") varieties began to be developed. They have the same tender kernels, creamy texture and "real corn flavor" as standard corn, but they start out with higher sugar content, 12-20% by weight, and because of this have a longer storage life, lasting 4-6 days with refrigeration, although they convert sugar to starch at the same rapid rate as standard corn after harvest.

Sh-2
Through the 1980's, se corn was the most common commercial sweet corn, but it was rapidly replaced by patented sh2 ("shrunken-2") varieties, with even less starch and from between 22-40% sugar by weight. These varieties have the advantage that, not only do they start out with a higher sugar content than either su or se varieties, but they also convert their sugar more slowly to starch both on the plant and after harvest, meaning that these new varieties could be shipped long distances and are thus the varieties most likely to be found in the supermarket today.

So why did Full Belly switch? According to Andrew Brait of Full Belly Farm: "Silver Queen (su) was the white that first really knocked people's socks off. We ended up growing Silverado because Silver Queen is highly susceptible to corn smut. We grew Silverado (se) for many, many years until it was discontinued by the breeder Harris Moran. After a season or two of trying to find another good se, we felt like we'd come up short. The supersweets (sh2) are pretty much the be all and end all of sweet corn variety development. Because of changing consumer demand, there are so few non sh2 varieties available or in development. This year we've been growing the sexy "Xtra-Tender 374A". Despite my mourning for the lost Silverado (which was our signature corn), I have to say this new variety is darn good, and as the name says 'extra tender'."

And what is it that Garden of Eve grows? The corn we're getting in our CSA shares are one of 2 varieties: Luscious or Brocade, both bi-color (white and yellow) se varieties, with Luscious the earlier to mature (so this is probably the variety we've been getting in our CSA shares so far).

To preserve as much sugar as possible in a non-supersweet variety, like the ones we get from Garden of Eve, follow these tips from the National Gardening Association: "Refrigerate corn if you're not going to be able to eat it right away, because the loss of sugar is much slower at lower temperatures. If you're not near a refrigerator and you have some harvested corn, keep the freshly picked ears in single layers, rather than stacking them. Corn tends to overheat inside its tight husks, so give each ear as much breathing room as possible. It also helps to cover the ears with a damp cloth."

Just like with any vegetable, the varieties of corn are rich and diverse, and so maybe, in the end, the "best" variety just comes down to your own personal taste!

FARM UPDATE: NO TOMATO BLIGHT AT GARDEN OF EVE

I know we've all pretty much written off the tomatoes by now, having heard so much in the news about farmers burning entire fields of tomato plants throughout the northeast. A New York Times article even said:

"On Thursday morning, Chris Walbrecht, co-owner of the organic farm Garden of Eve in Riverhead, N.Y., on Long Island, found the first signs of late blight on a row of 800 Early Girl tomato plants; he said he might have to destroy them all, a major blow to the farm's finances."

But wait! Turns out, we'll be getting tomatoes after all. There is no blight at Garden of Eve.

According to Eve: "Chris was misquoted in the NYT and they made it sound like we have been hit by the plague... our tomatoes do not have late blight, we just had a Cornell coop ex person come out to our farm and verify. So we are optimistic. However, you never know what the weather will do over the next few weeks, we will have tomatoes but it is likely to be a shorter season than usual."

So there you have it. Dust off those tomato recipes and get ready, the season is about to begin!

RECIPE: PAN FRIED TURNIPS AND GREENS

I started with a recipe for roasted radishes and radish greens, figuring I could use it for our "salad" turnips, but when I got to the part about turning the oven on to 500 degrees in order to roast them for a mere 15 minutes, I just couldn't go through with it on such a hot and muggy day. So I cooked it all on the stove top and it came out great!

PAN FRIED TURNIPS AND GREENS

1 bunch small turnips with greens attached
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
salt/pepper
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

Rinse any dirt off the turnips and greens, then cut the greens from the turnips and set aside. Cut turnips into half inch slices. Heat olive oil over medium to high heat (I used a cast iron pan, and had the heat up pretty high) and add turnips and salt and pepper (to taste). Cook until brown on both sides. While the turnips cook, chop the stems and the greens into half inch pieces. When the turnips have been browned, turn down the heat, and add the turnip stems and cook for about 2 minutes, then add the turnip greens and the butter and cook until wilted, about 2 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar, remove from heat and serve.

I bet adding bacon would make this a delicious meal for one person. As a side dish, this probably serves 2.